The Boynton

Still the next best thing to dinner at Mom's

by Margaret LeRoux

The Boynton 117 Highland Street Worcester 756-8458 Hours Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Major credit cards Full bar Handicap accessible

My father visited us recently, and I wanted to duplicate the experience of his favorite restaurant. Where I grew up, in northern Wisconsin, one of our best dinners out was at a family-run place known for good cooking, friendly service, and bargain prices. So our choice was easy: we took him to the Boynton. For many folks, the Boynton is the next best thing to dinner at Mom's. And on a busy Friday night, we made our way through the packed bar to the dining room, which was crowded with families and students who've long known that this Highland Street eatery is one of the last real bargains in Worcester.

After a wait of less than 20 minutes, we were offered a table in the middle of the room and in the midst of the wait staff's brisk traffic pattern. We dodged waitresses carrying trays of food -- it all looked good -- as we studied the night's specials. There was a shrimp platter ($10.99), which featured coconut fried shrimp, barbecued shrimp, and scampi-style shrimp over rice pilaf. Also offered were baked-stuffed lobster ($14.99), barbecued chicken and ribs with sweet-potato fries, and roast duckling with apples and raspberry-cider sauce (both were $10.99). Fried calamari was only $7.99. But serious bargains are available before six o'clock Monday through Thursday and include baked scrod ($6.99), homemade meatloaf ($5.49), and a hot turkey sandwich ($4.99).

My dad saw a lot on the Boynton's menu that reminded him of home: one-third pound hamburgers with French fries ($5.29), beef liver with onions or bacon ($6.29), and tenderloin tips ($12.29).

There's a good variety of seafood, including poached salmon in dill sauce ($9.99), baked haddock ($9.29), and broiled swordfish ($12.49).

In past visits I've enjoyed pasta Corfu: spinach, sun-dried tomatoes, and Kalamata olives in a lemon and garlic sauce with feta cheese ($7.69). And there's also the delicious pizza selection: one of my friend's favorite topping combo here is bacon, tomato, and cheese with mayonnaise-dressed lettuce served on top ($5.25 a small; $8.25 a large).

Before we'd chosen our entrees, we realized the other disadvantage of our location. Our table was also down wind from the entrance; on this chilly night, we were blasted with cold air every time the door opened. By the time we'd ordered an appetizer -- baked brie ($6.69) -- and a couple of Sam Adams on draft ($3) and a St. Francis Chardonnay ($3) we were getting quite cold. The round of brie -- which was wrapped in glazed puff pastry, baked just until the insides started to melt, and served with sliced apples and crackers -- was delicious, but we were still cold. So when a booth opened up on the far side of the door, we asked to move. Our request was cheerfully granted.

Dinner arrived soon after, and we settled in for some serious eating. I'd chosen broiled red snapper from the evening's specials. This was a large fillet served with basil cream sauce and garnished with asparagus spears and bits of sun-dried tomatoes -- a nice combination. My meal came with a choice of vegetable medley or mashed butternut squash -- I selected the latter, which were seasoned with cinnamon and nutmeg -- and a starch choice: French fries, mashed or baked potato or rice pilaf. I chose mashed, which were the real thing, slightly lumpy though a bit bland.

The prime rib ($12.29), ordered medium-well, looked and tasted more like a well-done steak. But as our waitress placed the plate in front of us, she explained that the meat had shrunk during the cooking, and that another piece would arrive soon. This second piece, an ample serving on its own, was fork tender, juicy, but more on the medium-rare side of done. Fortunately, my father is easy to please. He enjoyed both pieces of meat, as well as the baked potato and crunchy mixture of broccoli, zucchini, and carrots.

The third in our party was satisfied with his veal piccata ($11.29), two generous medallions, though the frozen French fries were rather ho-hum.

We shared a hefty slice of chocolate cake ($2.49) and a rather skimpy slice of bourbon pecan pie ($2.49).

Our bill came to $70.52 before tip, not the bargain my dad and I remembered from northern Wisconsin. But considering the amount of food we were served, it was a good value.